It's chilly here in NYC today; it definitely feel like fall. So whether you're planning to settle in tonight to watch Dancing with the Stars or the Jets on Monday Night Football, there's no need to wait with Linus for the “Great Pumpkin” to appear; with this recipe you can make a Great Pumpkin recipe appear anytime. Pronounce it Pea-Con or Pea-Can, either way, when you serve my fun, tasty and healthy seasonal spin on traditional wings, you'll score one in the win column .... even if your team is a no show in the winner's circle.
As a New Yorker, I “go to the beach” when I lived in New Jersey, I went “down the shore”. In either location Labor Day meant the end of the summer. Using that logic, if summer was over, Fall had begun. In reality, Labor day occurred weeks ago but yesterday was the official first day of Fall and I for one am glad it's here. Warm days, cool nights and low humidity – what’s not to love about Fall. But for me, Fall means comfort food and that makes me VERY happy!
In a recent conversation with a client, I found myself in the middle of a soliloquy extolling the virtues of a perfectly roasted chicken. When I hear the all-too-often phrase, “Not chicken again!”, I cant help but wonder how we have gotten to this place. I have enough chicken recipes committed to memory that even as often as I serve it, my family has never said, “What, chicken again?” Chicken does not need to be your family's Groundhog Day.
My students have heard me say, “Think technique, not recipe”. By mastering techniques, you will never be at the mercy of a recipe again. Today's recipe is a family favorite that required only minor adjustments to make it Gluten Free and the technique used in this recipe is one you'll use over and over again.
Pollo alla Cacciatore (Chicken Cacciatore) is a “hunter” style braised dish. The dish probably didn't start out as a chicken dish but over time as fewer families relied on a hunter for their meat, chicken became synonymous with this dish. There are as many recipes for this dish as there are Italian grandmothers; this is the one I grew up with. Back then, my mom cooked it in a large cast iron skillet. I use a large “everyday” pan which can be brought to the table for an informal meal.
3 pounds chicken pieces (I suggest thighs, but if you prefer white meat, use free range split breasts)
½ C olive oil
¼ C FINE brown rice flour
¼ C potato starch
1 small onion, diced
¼ C carrot, chopped
¼ C Celery, thinly sliced
1 clove of garlic, minced
½ C dry wine*
1 28 oz can San Marzano crushed plum tomatoes
1 bay leaf
3 springs of fresh thyme
Salt and pepper
Directions:
Strain the tomatoes through a fine mesh strainer. Reserve both the pulp and the liquid.
Pat dry the chicken pieces – damp meat won't brown!
Salt and pepper the chicken
Mix the potato starch and rice flour together
Dredge the chicken into the flour/starch mixture, shaking off the excess
Heat a small amount of oil in a large pan
Brown the chicken in the hot oil on all sides. Do not crowd the pan – the chicken pieces should not touch each other while browning; work in batches if necessary. It MAY be necessary to add more fat to the pan as you go along. Do not over do it, you are NOT deep frying the chicken.
When well browned remove the chicken pieces to a plate; they will be added back into the pan later.
Add the onion, celery and carrots to the pan, stirring often, cook for about 5 min. Add the garlic and cook another 1- 2 min. Do not let the garlic burn.
Add ½ cup of wine to the pan. Bring the mixture to a boil and reduce by half. Lower the heat to bring the sauce to a simmer.
Add the canned tomato pulp. Taste the sauce: salt and pepper to taste.
Add the parsley, bay leaf and thyme.
Add the chicken to the pan and add ONLY enough of the reserved tomato juice to cover the chicken. Cover the pan.
Keep and eye on the volume of liquid. Add more liquid, if necessary, to keep the chicken barely covered.
Cook 30 minutes or until the chicken is tender.
Remove the bay leaf before serving.
Serve over polenta, rice or your favorite gluten free pasta.
*A note about the wine. This recipe has been changed over time. Originally it called for white wine, but growing up we rarely had left over white wine, so red wine was used. I like it either way. Use what you like. Just don't use wine that you wouldn't drink since the flavors will be concentrated during the reduction process.
Teaching classes for
Williams-Sonoma's customers is one of the things I love most about my job.
This past Sunday I had the opportunity to teach a technique class on
Olive Oil. The difficult part is that I never know how many people to expect,
their level of knowledge or their expectations. That is the challenge that drives me to find the best
way to both meet the class objectives - the reason Williams Sonoma is
paying me - and to find a way to relate the subject so it
has relevance for the participants, whomever they might be.
When I teach a technique class, it's just that, and NOT a recipe class. If it were a recipe class I'd hand out copies of a recipe and walk people through how to make that dish. What I hope to do is teach you something that you can apply more generally to your cooking. I want you to play with your food; to experiment with flavors, textures and techniques to arrive at a style that suits you.
William-Sonoma's
goal for this class was to educate customers as to why extra-virgin olive
oils are special and when to use them. My goal for the class was to
effectively show the diversity of olive oil by sharing not only a savory dish
but also showcasing olive oil's sweeter side by sharing a family recipe
for Sicilian Olive Oil Cake. Lifestyles here in Manhattan are very
different from those in the sprawling suburbs where I spent my youth. I'm
the oldest of 5 and most of my friends were also part of what would be
considered a large family here in Manhattan. I wanted to see if I could
come up with a dish would work for both large and small families as well as
singles. Williams-Sonoma "required" a pesto dish for the class
and suggested serving it on crostini. While I love the delicacy of a
Genovese style basil pesto, I was hoping to do something a little different and combine it with one of my favorite staples - pasta.
Sometimes
life just decides it's time to cut you a break and apparently Sunday it was my turn. The ingredients necessary for the cooking class were not in the store’s
refrigerator as I had expected. So a quick
trip to the market was in order. I was
told to get basil and whatever cheese I’d need to make the traditional pesto from the recipe I was handed, but when
I got to the market they were out of basil!
I didn't have time to go to another store, so I happily picked up some parsley
and arugula to whip up my favorite pesto.
Before I give you the recipe for this pesto, I wanted to share a bit of information about this wonderful sauce pesto. The passage below was copied directly from the Williams-Sonoma website:
Originating in Genoa, in the Liguria region
of Italy, pesto is an uncooked sauce made from fresh basil, garlic, pine nuts,
Parmigiano-Reggiano or pecorino cheese and olive oil. Pesto is traditionally
prepared by hand using a mortar and pestle (pesto, from pestare, means
to pound). Back in the days of seafaring merchants and explorers, sailors knew
they were almost home when they smelled the sweet scent of basil wafting from
the hillsides above Genoa, where the aromatic herb flourishes.
Today, pesto is made with a variety of other ingredients besides basil. Roasted
red bell peppers, arugula, mint and olives are all wonderful foundations for
the sauce, as you will discover with the recipes featured here. Often tossed
with cooked pasta, pesto is also delicious served on crostini, spooned onto
grilled seafood or chicken, or tucked inside steaks before cooking.
There
are two very different reasons why I love arugula pesto - first, I love the
peppery zing of arugula (translated this means "rocket") and the
second reason is a practical one. Basil is a tender herb and turns rapidly from
it's lovely natural green state into a blackish mess rather quickly. I was a single
mom for a while and had to watch every dime. Basil doesn’t hold up in the
refrigerator and was way more expensive than other items I could use. I
started substituting other greens for basil more than 15 years ago and I’m not
about to stop anytime soon!
Baby
spinach also makes a lovely pesto and was a great way to get greens into my
young boys. The three of us didn't
finish a pound of pasta for dinner (thankfully they weren't teens yet!) and I
found that other greens remained appetizingly green the next day making it a
welcomed cold lunch for me the next day.
Why
bring up these points? If you happen to be single or only cooking for
two, it's great to cook a whole pound of pasta and not have to cook again the
next night or worry about what you'll bring for lunch - especially when you
work a lot of hours or it's too hot to cook like these past few days.
So
before I give you my arugula recipe. promise me you'll experiment with
other herbs and leafy greens! The TECHNIQUE remains the
same no matter what greens you choose.
I’ll
mention that I don’t usually measure, unless I’m baking, so all these
measurements are approximates. I always
use a mini food processor to make pesto, but if you have the time/energy to use
the traditional mortar and pestle, more power to you.
Ingredients:
Approx 3 oz by weight or 2 cups by volume - baby
arugula - washed and dried in a salad spinner
1 large bunch flat leaf Italian Parsley - washed
and died in a salad spinner
2 to 3 T of Pine nuts
2 to 3 cloves garlic depending on size and your
tastes
Juice of 1/2 a large lemon
1/2 cup – ¾ Cup of a high quality Extra-Virgin
Olive Oil *
1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1/4 cup shredded Pecorino cheese
1/2 cup of reserved pasta water or home-made
salt-free chicken stock**
1 pound pasta of your choice
Technique:
In a 4 cup mini food processor place equal
amounts of arugula and parsley leaves (tender stems are okay – but avoid using
the tougher “main stem” of the parsley) in the bowl
Add the garlic cloves, lemon juice and about 1/4
C olive oil.
Pulse the food processor until the leaves are
reduced to a fine mince.
Add both cheeses and approx. another ¼ C olive
oil
Continue to pulse, add olive oil if necessary to
get the desired consistency
Toss the pesto into well-drained pasta while the
pasta is still warm.
This is also delicious served cold as a pasta
salad.
Feel free to toss in cubed left over roasted
chicken to change things up.
* My favorites are Organic Ravida from the Southern coast of Sicily (described as intensely green in both color and flavor, slightly fruity with a hint of almond, finishing up with a sharp pop of pepper at the end) or the Nicolas Alzieri from the south of France (described as buttery, fruity (lemons and apples), with some light grassy notes reminiscent of artichokes)
** Since good extra virgin olive oil is very flavorful and not the least expensive of items, I tend to add my own homemade chicken stock in place of any additional oil to achieve the consistency I like when dressing pasta. This also serves to save a few calories. Should you choose to use chicken stock be sure your not adding a lot of extra sodium since the cheese is plenty salty!!
As mentioned in class, a thicker pesto is lovely served with either
meat or fish. Try it instead of butter
on a baked potato. I also “stuff” it
under the skin of a chicken prior to roasting so it can flavor the meat. In a thinner preparation, with cilantro, it
makes a great marinade for steaks.
If you took my class, I hope I succeeded in helping you gain some
new appreciation for olive oils, especially Extra-Virgin Olive Oils and when
you think pesto, I hope you’ll think technique, not recipe. I encourage you to find your own
combinations and your favorite ways to serve this delightful sauce.
Pick over the beans and discard any misshapen beans and stones. Rinse the beans and drain.
In an electric pressure cooker, combine the beans, water and the 1 tsp.salt. Cover and cook on high for 50 minutes according to the manufacturer's instructions. Release the pressure according to the manufacturer's instructions. Transfer the beans and their liquid to a large bowl. Set aside.
In a Dutch oven over medium-high heat, warm the olive oil. Add the onion and cook until soft and translucent, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat. Add the brown sugar, molasses, dry mustard, brown mustard, vinegar, salt and pepper and stir until the brown sugar has dissolved. Stir in the bacon.
Strain the cooked beans into another large bowl, reserving the cooking liquid. Add the beans to the onion mixture and stir to combine.Slowly stir in 2 to 2 1/2 cups of the reserved liquid. Set the Dutch oven over low heat, cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 1hour. Partially uncover the beans and continue simmering, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has thickened, about 30 minutes more; do not allow the liquid to evaporate completely.
Serve immediately**
Serves 8.
Williams-Sonoma Kitchen.
Fortunately the folks at Shop Organic sent me a discount code to share with my readers! Be sure to check out their Gluten Free section.
